416 Wiring and awkward anti-reversal latch

I figure sean will be the first with an opinion, but I wanted to throw the question out there anyway.

So, I need new wiring for the 416. Basically, once I plug in the battery, the gun is firing full auto for as long as the connectors are touching. Dafuq?! Also, because of the massive, wonky ass mosfet on the wiring kit that protrudes through the buffer tube, I can fit no batteries... No, Sean, I do not want a shorty stock. I wantz me buffer tube. However, if I cannot find a good wiring kit to fit... I may have to go that route.

Next up, I feel like my anti-reversal latch is failing. Before the wiring failure, I could cycle on full auto, but there would be a little 'wirr' at the end of some cycles. When I took the upper receiver off, I could actually watch the piston move forward after a half cycle without firing. I checked the latch and it was in fact installed correctly and even put a new one in. Same issue. Once again, Dafuq?!

However, first order of business is new wiring... recommendations? Links? Considering buying a King arms v2 rear wiring kit as its not expensive and should work fine. There is just no fuse. Does the fuse matter?

Second... what the eff is going on with the anti-reversal latch? Or is that some whole other problem entirely?

Sad panda Sad.

Positive Note: VFC 416 is almost back up and running pre-Drew state. (sorry, buddy. Had to.)

I BEAT SEAN MUAHAHAHAHAHA

Look into the mosfets made by legitdood on asm. They are relatively thin and contain a polyfuse within them, which will trip when heated but continue firing once cool. Also will have plenty of wire to hook up to your existing contacts. Not terribly expensive either.

As for your ARL...yeah I dunno...spitballin', but maybe teeth on bevel are shot?

How much are those fets? I am assuming they are not 20 bucks shipped? See, I have to keep this on the cheaper side as all my graduation work money just got blown on airfare.

we should take a look at it this weekend or something, but here's what is likely to be wrong:

- Electrical issue
It's either a blown FET or charge is leaking into the gate wire of your FET. It's likely the latter caused by when we mangled your positive lead wires.
Also, ExtremeFire FETs are cheap and durable, you can also find resettable fuses there too. Fuse doesn't matter until the motor stops moving, and then if the motor stops moving and you have the trigger down, the weakest link will blow up (which will likely be the FET)

- Mechanical issue
It could just be that you have only 2 ARL teeth on your Bevel Gear

I just done think you are going to fit a battery and MOSFET and switch in buffer tube. You will just have to get wire set with fuse and run 7.4.

ARL can be sanded shorter or it may because of too few notches as others have said.

what kind of functionality are you looking to get out of your FET?